The rear suspension area of the car will get similar treatment to the front.  Starting with the shock tower, I'll replace the standard fiberglass piece with one from RC Carbon Works (#CW-086).  The largest advantage of the new piece is that it has pre-drilled holes for the Associated B4 wing mounts (#9587).  Replacing the stock wing mount tubes is sacrilege to some, but lets face it, it isn't a very good design and I have no desire for my wing to fall out every time the car flips.

Moving to the rear a-arms, I'll replace the original parts with a set from RPM (#70542).  They are a more robust design and are moulded in black.  The rear rear threaded camber links will also be replaced  with the turnbuckle set mentioned in the previous post.

The original RC-10 used a dog bone setup to transmit power to the rear wheels.  As a kid I didn't know any better (and I'm pretty sure in 1987 there wasn't anything better) but as time has gone by, the advent of MIP CVD's has made life much easier.  No more dog bones popping out and a much smoother power delivery.  MIP still produces a kit for the RC-10 (#1007) and I'll add it to mine.

Rear end parts list

• RC Carbon Works rear shock tower w/ wing mounts #CW-086
• Associated B4 wing mount #9587
• RPM rear a-arms #70542
• MIP CVD kit #1007

CHASSIS/SUSPENSION

Now we get to the meat of the car.  This is where the time, research and money come in.  When I first learned of the release, I figured I would build the car and run it.  Box stock.  The more I've been reading, the more I've learned about "vintage racing".  It turns out that vintage off-road racing is starting to take off.  Quite a few people are racing original RC-10's and keeping up with modern cars.  There's a guy at my local track that does this.  The problem with vintage racing is that it takes a fair amount of money to get a RC-10 competitive and reliable enough to withstand a racing environment.  Modifying a  RC-10 also isn't as simple as walking into the hobby shop and asking for parts.  I have done countless Google searches and have quite a few threads "bookmarked" as well.

I'm a racer.  I can tell myself that I don't want to race this car, but it would be a lie.  While I don't plan on racing this car weekly (like my Tamiya TRF201), I do plan to bring it to the track and hopefully spark some interest in starting a vintage class.

On RC10Talk.com, a poster asked the question, "Who's going to be the first jerk to dye their white parts black?"  Apparently, white suspension parts is a big deal to the classic community.  I could care less myself.  In fact, I find black to be much nicer if only because it doesn't get stained from the dirt like the white used to.

Here's a picture of a box stock front end.  There is a lot that will need to be addressed here if I want to improve the handling of the car.  Original RC-10's had short a-arms and are much narrower than today's modern cars.  To widen the front of the car, I'm going to add a set of Associated wide front a-arms (#6206).  Since the arms are black, I'll dye the rest of the white parts pictured above black to match.

Quite a few people run a longer front shock on their "modern" RC-10's.  Associated claims that they've improved the stock shock on the re-release and I'm going to work with them for now.  The shock tower pictured is the stock, fiberglass unit.  To save a little weight and to continue with the "black scheme" I'm going to add a carbon fibre tower from RC Carbon Works.com (#CW-016)

The original RC-10 came with threaded rods for the tie-rods and steering linkages.  Thankfully, thirty years later we have adjustable turnbuckles.  Associated now sells a complete turnbuckle set with ball cups (#6259).  This will be a very welcome addition and will making camber and toe adjustments much easier.

The last item(s) that I'll replace on the front end will be the steering setup.  When I was a kid, everyone replaced their stock steering setup with a ball bearing unit from A&L.  After a Google search, I found that not only is A&L still around, but they still have the steering kits available (#1080).

Front end parts list

• Associated wide front arms #6206
• RC Carbon Works front shock tower #CW-016
• Associated tie rod set #6259
• A&L ball bearing steering kit (less bearings) #1080
• Lohas front bumper (from Ebay)

Here's a video I stumbled across a few years ago that has an original RC-10 running around a carpet race track.

Trinity P2K Dyno Sheet
Turns:  27x1
RPM:  29,136
Power:  199.1W
Efficiency:  68.7%
Torque:  170Nmm

Tekin G11 ESC Specs
Controls:  Forward/Brake
On Resistance:  .0008 Ohms
Input Voltage:  4-10 cells or 4.8V-12.0V
Motor Limit:  4-7 cells, none
Max Current:  320A
Current Limit:  10-90 amps and Bypass
Throttle Frequencies:  1-11kHz
Brake Frequencies:  1.5-15 kHz
Dimensions:  1.85" x 1.25" x .65" (47mm x 32mm x 13mm)
Weight:  1.25oz (35g)

Protek 100S Servo Specs
Operating Voltage:  4.8-6.0V
Operating Temperatue:  14º-140ºF
Operating Speed @ 6.0V:  .12/60º sec
Dynamic Torque:  196 oz-in
Motor Type:  Cored DC
Output Shaft:  25 Tooth
Gears:  Metal
Weight:  54.9g

ELECTRONICS

I debated back and forth on electronics pretty much since I hit the button to pre-order my car. Brushed or brushless? How fast does this thing need to go? Lipo's or Nimh's? I look very seriously at the Hobbywing 35a/3000kv brushless combo at $75 on Ebay. Good price for a reasonable brushless setup. Then I started reading about the vintage racing and looked at 17.5 motors and esc's. That's an easy $200. Should I go vintage/brushed with an old Novak ESC and 19T motor or maybe a 27T like I had as a kid?

In the end a brushed setup is the way I have decided to go. I've had an old Trinity P2K 27T motor in my box for sometime now and never really run it. I threw it in my old Lunchbox as was amazed at how much faster the 'Box' was over the Tamiya Sport Tuned motor that was in it. Looking on Ebay, I found a new in package P2K Pro with dyno sheet for $35 shipped. I snatched it up.

ESC's was a little harder to decide on. I've always had Novak products, including several 410M5's and 610-HRV's. Finding them on Ebay in excellent shape and for a good price is getting harder and harder. New, brushed ESC's are becoming difficult to find as well (unless you want a cheap Tamiya or a rockcrawling ESC). Enter the Tekin G11. At $62 it's a bargin. No motor limit, lots of adjustments and a great price. The only downfall is that it doesn't have a lipo cutoff. For $10, I can pickup one of those. 

Rounding out my electronics will be pretty easy. I'll buy an additional receiver for my trusty Airtronics MX-Sport. For a servo I plan on using a ProTek 100S. I have several hardcase lipo's which should work fine.

Yeah, I'm going to start my thread a bit early. About 2.5 months early anyway.

We'll start with an introduction. My name is Ryan and I live in southern CA. In 1987, I was fortunate enough to get a RC-10 for Christmas. It had the wiper speed control and my Dad's Futaba Magnum Sr. radio. I ran that poor thing into the ground over the next many years. It just ran and ran. Loved that car. Several years later, it was stolen out of the garage. Our home owner's insurance covered it and it financed two new RC-10T Team Trucks with all the fixings. 

Since then, I've always wanted another RC-10, but just never got to it. New in box prices were crazy. When word of the re-release came out, I patiently waited for info. I was glued to the thread here, reading all of the speculation. As soon as Tower Hobbies had it available for pre-order, I jumped on it and bought one. The following day, I bought a second (to save as a new in box and sell later).

I intend for my RC-10 be be a runner. The initial plan was for it to just be something I would drive around in front of the house, at the park and maybe at the track. Box stock. Just like I did as a kid. But this place is addicting and has way too much knowledge and I've been reading. A LOT. Now, I think I want to do some vintage racing with it. Nothing hardcore, just for fun.